I-Ikat ikuyo yonke indawo kwezi ntsuku- njengesiqhelo njengayo nayiphi na into yakudala enokuthi ibekho. Kubonakala kumalaphu emveli aqala ukusuka kuMazantsi mpuma eAsia ukuya kuMazantsi eMelika ukuya kuMbindi Mpuma nangaphaya, olu hlobo lwepateni ngoku luboleka ngaphakathi uhlobo oluthile lweengubo ze-bohemian zokunxiba. Kodwa yintoni, kwaye ivelaphi?
Gcina Ncamathisela (Ityala lemifanekiso: Unyango lweNdlu)
Cinga malunga nelaphu eliqhelekileyo elineepateni, yitsho ngelaphu elenziwe ngeentyatyambo. Xa ucinga malunga nokuba yenziwa njani le pateni, unokuba nomfanekiso ngqondweni wohlobo oluthile lokushicilela, apho uyilo lusitampu khona kwilaphu elingenanto kusetyenziswa idayi okanye ipeyinti, akunjalo? Yindlela eyenziwe ngayo ibhloko eprintiweyo yelaphu yomqhaphu kunye neethayilethi kunye nezinye iintlobo zempahla eyilwe yipateni. Ngekat, nangona kunjalo, imisonto idayiwe ngaphambili zilukiwe zaba ngamalaphu. Makhe ndikucacisele.
Igama elithi 'ikat' (elibizwa 'ee-KAHT') livela kwigama lesiMalaysian elithi 'mengikat,' okanye 'ukubopha,' kuba imicu evulekileyo ibotshelelwe kwiinyanda kusetyenziswa ingca okanye ikotoni ephathwe nge-wax ukucacisa apho idayi inakho ukuntywila kunye nokufaka umbala kumsonto (ngokusisiseko luhlobo oluhlaziyiweyo lwe-tie-dye). Oko kuthetha ukuthini ukuba umaluki kufuneka abone ukuba yeyiphi na kwimisonto evulekileyo idayi ekufuneka (kwaye ingafanele) iye kuyo ukuze yenze ipateni efanelekileyo xa yalukwa kwilinen. Kuya kusiba nzima ngakumbi njengoko usongeza eminye imibala. Ezinye ikats zenziwa ngokudaya imisonto yentsontelo (imisonto eqingqiweyo encanyathiselwe kwilinen), eminye ngokudaya imisonto yeft (imisonto leyo yokwaluka ngaphakathi nangaphandle kwemisonto yentsinga), kwaye ezinye ngokudaya zombini, a ubuchule obaziwa njenge-ikat ephindwe kabini. Kufana nepuzzle ye-logic puzzle, kwaye ukucinga ngayo kuphela kwenza intloko yam ibuhlungu.
Ngaphandle kobu bunzima, obu buchule bubonakala ngathi buye baphuhla ngokuzimeleyo kwiinkcubeko ezahlukeneyo nakwimazwekazi okoko ubuncinci beMinyaka yobumnyama, kubonakala kwiindawo ezinje ngePre-Columbian Peru kunye naseGuatemala, ngenkulungwane ye-10 Yemen (umfanekiso 2), eJapan (umfanekiso 3), eIndonesia (umfanekiso 4), India (umfanekiso 5) kunye Uzbekistan (umfanekiso 6). Ezinye ikats zigxininisa ukuchaneka, apho kunzima ukuxela ukuba ubuchule be-ikat busetyenziswa endaweni yoshicilelo lwebhloko. Ukwenza umzobo ochanekileyo, abaluki basebenzisa ii-war war ikats, apho banokubona khona ipateni yomfanekiso (7). Nge-weft ikats, ipateni ayichanekanga ncam, kuba uyilo alubonakali de kube sele kulukiwe (umfanekiso 8). Inkangeleko ‘engacacanga’ yee-ikats ezininzi (obu buchule baziwa ngokuba yi-abra, okanye ilifu kwi-Asia eseMbindini) ikwavela kwiidayi ezophayo kancinane kwiindawo ezichasayo. Ngaphakathi kweenkcubeko ezibavelisileyo, ikats yayiimpawu zesimo ngenxa yesakhono kunye nexesha elifunekayo kwimveliso yazo.
Amasiko aseNtshona amkele ikats kangangeenkulungwane. Ubuchwephesha kunye namalaphu kuqala eza eYurophu ngabarhwebi baseDatshi kuMazantsi mpuma eAsia, abahloli bamazwe baseSpain eMzantsi Melika, nangabahambi abakwiNdlela yeSilika, apho amaziko eIzbek ikat eSamarkand naseBukhara ayizindawo zokumisa ezibalulekileyo. Kwinkulungwane ye-18 eFrance, abavelisi besilika abafuna inkangeleko engaqhelekanga benza ikat eyaziwa njenge isebe le-chiné taffeta (umfanekiso 9). I-Ikat iyaqhubeka nokukhuthaza abayili baseNtshona kokubini kwangaphakathi kunye nefashoni (umfanekiso we-10), mhlawumbi ngenxa yokuba ingumthonyama kunye nehlabathi jikelele, uphawu olufanelekileyo kwixesha lethu lehlabathi.
Imifanekiso : 1 Ingubo yomntu eyenziwe ngekat enemibala-bala, c. 1910, ukusuka eSamarkand, eUzbekistan. Isuka e IVictoria kunye neAlbert Museum ; 2 Indwangu eluhlaza ye-ikat Bali Isle yiLwandle lwase China igubungela isofa kule foto intle evela kwi UDomino ukudubula, nge Ngokwesiqhelo Chic ; 3 Isiqwengana senkulungwane ye-ikat senkulungwane ye-ikat, mhlawumbi esivela e-Yemen, sinombhalo wegolide kunye nomnyama opeyintiweyo kwiskripthi se-kufic. Isuka e IMyuziyam yeMetropolitan yoBugcisa , Inew York; 4 I-kasuri yaseJapan, ikat edaywe kabini nge-indigo, ukusuka kwixesha le-Meiji (ekuqaleni kwenkulungwane yama-20), iidola ezingama-425 nge UMarla Mallett ; 5 I-Contemporary weft ikat sarong okanye i-shawl evela e-Bali, e-Indonesia, ngeedola ezili-165 ukusuka UMarla Mallett 6 Isilika kabini ikat patola sari eyenziwe eGujarat, eNtshona India, ngasekupheleni kwe-19 okanye ekuqaleni kwenkulungwane yama-20. Olu hlobo lwe-ikat ephindwe kabini, patola, lubhetyebhetye eGujarat, kwaye beluthunyelwa kumazwe angaphandle kangangeenkulungwane. Ifuna isixa esikhulu sezakhono kunye nexesha. Isuka e IVictoria kunye neAlbert Museum , ELondon; 7 Umfazi waseUzbek oluka ikat yentsontso. Uyayibona indlela imisonto ye-warp esele idayiwe ngayo kwipateni, kwaye uluka nje imisonto eqinileyo yokubamba ii-warp kunye. Ukusuka kwiVictoria & Albert Museum's Isincoko esinefoto kakhulu ekwenziweni kweekats; 8 Umfazi waseThailand uluka umqhaphu odayiwe nge-indigo kwi-weft ikat. Apha, sinokubona ukuba imicu ye-warp yonke iqinile i-indigo, kwaye ipateni iyavela njengoko ibeka imisonto ye-weft ngayo. Ukuhamba ngoSusan McCauley Impahla yeMilambo iMekong , ezibandakanya iifoto zendlela ikats ezenziwe ngayo; 9 Isinxibo saseFrance senkulungwane ye-18 senziwe isebe le-chiné i-silk taffeta, ubuchule be-ikat obuvela kwimizekelo yase-Asiya. Abantu baseNtshona bayayithanda ikat. U-Madame de Pompadour, inkosikazi ka-Louis XV, wayeluthanda olu hlobo lwelaphu kangangokuba ngamanye amaxesha kwakusithiwa yi-Pompadour taffeta. Umfanekiso ovela kwikhathalogu entle yemiboniso evela kwiMetropolitan Museum's Unxibelelwano oluyingozi: Ifashoni kunye nefanitshala ngekhulu le-18 bonisa ukusuka ku-2004 (eyona nto ndiyithandayo kakhulu kwiMet); 10 Igumbi lokulala eliyilelwe nguSteven Gambrel, elineendonga eziphakanyiswe kwi-vintage Uzbek ikat. Ifoto ngu UWilliam Waldron ye Ukuhonjiswa kwe-Elle .
(Uhlengahlengiswe kwakhona kwisithuba esipapashwe okokuqala nge-01/07/10-AH)
